Wales: Day 21 My Canterbury Tale

5:55 am departure time from the Cathays train station in Cardiff. Painful. But once again, we were all so excited to be going to Dover and Canterbury that we did it with a smile. :) We connected in London, and after a brief scary moment on the subway (not scary for me) where Tom thought he lost me, we were on the road again.

Dover Castle is probably now my third favorite behind Raglan and Usk. It's enormous! It's right on the coast, so the view is incredible. It is also on a huge hill, so the hike was somewhat daunting, but hey, the higher the destination, the better the view. Right? That's what I've learned here. Maybe I'll be able to use that analogy in a sacrament meeting talk someday.

Along with awesome castle construction, it also includes a Saxon church and a Roman Pharos (lighthouse). It was built by Henry II in honor of his grandfather, William the Conqueror.

We had key timing and were able to participate in a re-enactment of some "court proceedings" in the Great Hall. Prince John (yeah the evil nemesis of Robin Hood) took a particular interest in me. I was spittin' game until my director, Tom, interfered. He was such a babe, too! Freak. What a waste. No worries though. We rendezvoused after the court proceedings and tour of the castle. Let me just say. They may call his brother Richard the Lionheart, but from what I've seen, John is the animal. (Just kidding. Kind of.)

Hopped back on a train for a 15 minute ride to Canterbury. Ever heard of Chaucer and the Canterbury Tales? Well. The pilgrimage providing Chaucer with material was made famous by Henry II, after his knights brutally murdered Thomas a-Becket in the Cathedral. The Pope was so pissed that he excommunicated the entire country until Henry completed a highly publicized pilgrimage and did other stuff for absolution.

The city of Canterbury was super busy. It was a Saturday and they had little festivals and things going on. Downtown was pretty cool though. We had some free time so we finally took advantage of the nearest Shake Away. These shake places are everywhere here and people FREAK OUT about them. I'm not crazy about milkshakes so hadn't made the Shake Away detour in any of the other cities, but as it was a Saturday afternoon, we were exhausted and it was a little too crowded to fight our way through the packed streets, I thought it sounded pretty fantastic. I got a Toblerone shake, and WOW. Very delicious. It wasn't like our milkshakes at home. It was actually a MILKshake. Not an ICE CREAM shake. It was mostly liquid. Milk, a little ice cream and some crushed up Toblerone chunks. MMmmmmmmmmm. Who in the United States decided that milkshakes should be crazy thick? No. If I want to eat something with a spoon, I'll turn to my beloved ice cream. This was amazing. Maybe I'll try to make one when I get home. Won't be as good, but definitely worth a shot.

We braved the crowds and shops for a bit after our delicious shakes. I bought an awesome dress! I got lucky and found a super cool little black shift in a chic boutique downtown, so I capitalized on the situation. Yahtzee.

We went to the famous Canterbury Cathedral for Evensong at 3:30 ish. This cathedral was AMAZING. The architecture was so elaborate and intricate, and I couldn't tear my eyes away from the stained glass. This was also the best Evensong we've been to. The combination may have combined to produce my opinion. This was the best cathedral experience ever. Unfortunately I couldn't take pictures inside, but it was just amazing. Trust me.

We connected in London again on the way home. I had my little heart set on seeing Phantom and I was getting all geeked up for it. Unfortunately, the trains to Cardiff weren't running late enough. :( We just came home instead.... but it was ok. We were crazy tired and had church in the morning. Had the trains been running we wouldn't have gotten home until like 2 am. And I get to see it on our free day in London in a week and a half. No big deal.

Wales: Day 20 The Dawn Patrollers

First of all, I wanted to thank anyone who has emailed, facebooked or commented here about my blog! I am glad people are enjoying it. Continued questions and comments are appreciated. Also, I usually respond to every comment here on my blog, but for whatever reason it won't let me leave comments while I'm here. So thanks to everyone who has commented! I read and appreciate those. They do not go unnoticed. :)

So, Cornwall Day 2. We stayed at the Penzance Youth Hostel, which was super nice and clean. Thank goodness. I decided to go on the optional "Dawn Patrol" trip, which was meeting at the vans at 7 am. I know. I'm always tired and burnt out, but I am here! I want to live out every second I can and see all the cool stuff physically possible. We climbed into the vans, blinking in the gray sky morning, and headed down a winding road to see some Neolithic sites.

First was Men an Tol. This "stone doughnut" formation was said to increase fertility and cure rickets if you passed through the center hole. I didn't do it. Sorry, future kids. I just want to see how bad you really want me to be your mom.

We had to climb through fields and hedges to get there, and then went in pursuit of another stone formation nearby but couldn't find it. Delirious and sleepy, we ran back to the vans and drove another quarter of a mile or so to our next site, Lanyon Quoit. This is a fairly typical quoit, or Neolithic burial site.

We rushed back to our hostel, hoping to get back in time for breakfast. We stumbled in, covered in leaves, grass and mud, just in time to smell the aroma of a hot English breakfast beckoning our hungry bodies through the door. If any of you don't know what the "full English breakfast" is, it's basically pure cholesterol deliciousness.

Eggs, bacon (uh no. This was a huge slab of salty ham. Yum), sausage, potatoes and/or hashbrowns, tomatoes, baked beans (was a little weirded out by this, but SERIOUSLY. My favorite. So so good for breakfast. I'm craving it now.), toast, croissants with jam and butter, yogurt, cereal, fruit, milk and juice.

It completely knocked my socks off. I loved it. I kept thinking "Man. My dad and Grandpa Stan would really appreciate this." Most mornings here I will have an English muffin, if that, and lately I've been pounding Diet Cokes as I run out the door. This was absolutely fantastic. Since I didn't post these with the previous post about the hostel, here they are now. Pretty nice room, me and the Irish had a good night.

Despite how much we ate, I think we worked it all off at our first stop - St. Michael's Mount. This was one of the coolest places we've been. Yeah. It's on top of that mini-mountain. Luckily the tide was low so we could walk all the way across. And then all the way up. :)

First noted for it's military strategic location, it's use has always been coveted by political and economic leaders. The legend is that St. Michael appeared there in the 5th Century, so a chapel was built on the hill. Now owned by the St. Aubyn family, the chapel is now surrounded by a majestic castle and manor house. Incredible. Once again, my breath was stolen by the heavenly gardens.


Next, we drove out to the Lanhydrock House. First an abbey in the 13th Century, this manor house was built in the 1700s and was owned by the Robartes family. They were the richest family in the southwest quadrant of the island, and the decor certainly testifies of that. Did I see multiple tiger rugs? Like the ones in the movies with the mouths open and roaring with their coats spread out behind them? Yes. One can be seen here on the left hand side of the ENORMOUS billiard table. (Yeah, this house reminded me increasingly of Clue as we were walking through it.)

The craziest thing about this house is that the kitchen, for all intents and purposes, included 7+ rooms. They have rooms for breads, desserts, meats, fresh produce, cleaning, preparing for service, and tons more.

It was out of control. It made me want to have a ridiculously huge dinner party. With drinks and music in THIS garden afterwards. I want it.
Our final stop for the day was the Cotehele House. A Tudor-style manor house, it reflected the shift from military and basic living necessities to more decorative and extravagant details, especially gardens. Unfortunately, the house was closed so we just walked around the grounds. At this point everyone was pretty tired and ready to be home and shower (we'd been wading in the ocean twice, climbed quite a bit and not showered because we stayed in hostels), so we were quite goofy and bored here. We hung out in the gardens, took home a black currant seedling which we affectionately named "Dongle," and then finally headed home. I wish I had taken more pictures, but since I didn't take my laptop to dump my memory card to at the end of the day, I quickly filled up with 2 days worth of photos. At least I got some good ones. Showering was so nice when we got home. I don't think my feet have ever been dirtier.

Wales: Day 19 Cornwalling

We left at 6 am for a 2 day trip to Cornwall, which proved to be one of the best couple days of our entire stay here. All in all, the drive was about 3 hours, but went by very quickly, as we were all studying like crazy. Yeah, we've actually been "studying abroad."

Our first stop was the famed Tintagel Castle, the place of conception and, some say, birth and childhood of King Arthur. While there is some fact and some fiction regarding a certain "King" Arthur, it's hard NOT to believe in the legend when you stand on these cliffs.

On these cliffs there was a 5th Century Abbey which is theoretically contemporary with Arthur, although the castle was not built until the 16th Century. Still, the entire site is absolutely stunning. We climbed down the slick, steep steps to Merlin's Cave (which is actually more of a tunnel). The tide was low enough that we could go all the way through, which was pretty awesome. We also enjoyed hanging out on the coast, which included a beautiful waterfall.

We hiked back up the towering stairs and even further still until we reached the top of the cliffs and the castle ruins. It was so majestic and just awesome. The coastline is gorgeous, and we were up so high we could see for miles. A light breeze was blowing, and the sun was shining, clear and bright. It could not have been more perfect. Plenty of photo ops, and even some time for yoga.

We enjoyed some delicious, DELICIOUS pasties at the local Cornish pasty shop (umm we were in CORNWALL. How could we NOT get some legit pasties?), and then hit the road again. We drove further down the coast to St. Ives. This little coastal town is just so quaint and picturesque. I loved it. The beach is clean, the lighthouses worthy of paintings and postcards, and rows and rows of winding streets filled with cute boutiques kept us busy all afternoon.

During free time, after perusing some shops, I chilled on the beach while my friends took a nap. I finally started writing a letter that I've been meaning to write for months, and it was just the perfect setting. I loved it. Unfortunately, after writing the letter, the girls and I were brutally attacked by SEAGULLS. The seagulls of St. Ives are particularly vicious. They will stop at nothing to seize your savory treats - in my case, a croissant. Somehow, at the end of the day after accounting for all the girls who were attacked on the shores of St. Ives, we found that all the girls were residents of Penny Lane - my house. What are the odds? Us and only us were affected. Effing seagulls. They actually cut Sam's lip! They drew blood! This is why I hate nature/animals.
The best part of the day came after St. Ives, when we drove further yet down the coast to Sennen's Cove. From there, we hiked all the way up to the clifftops and down to Land's End. This is the furthest westward point in Britain. It was fantastic. It was slightly cloudy, with a fresh breeze tossing my hair about my face. The waves crashed into the rocks and cliffs, and the grasses and wildflowers of the clifftop meadows swam in the salty air.

If you listen to touching love ballads and epic songs while sitting on a huge rock, on the edge of cliff, looking out over a neverending ocean, as the sun drifts toward the horizon,

Your life will change.

This will go down in my top 5 favorite things we've done, guaranteed. Absolutely amazing. You feel so small and insignificant, and suddenly every Mae song you've ever heard makes sense. It was an introspective, quiet sort of evening, and I really really love those. Thanks to the Irish girls for all of the "creeper" pics of me! :)

Our day was supposed to end there, but we added another stop so as to have less to conquer on the following day. Carn Euny is a site marking the remains of the longest occupied settlement in early British history. Built in the 5th Century BC and occupied until the retreat of the Romans in the 4th Century AD, this town is remarkably preserved, and pretty cool. We didn't spend too long there because it was cold and we were exhausted from climbing and walking all day long, but it was neat.
The funniest part of our day was when we were barreling down this narrow, hedged road in the countryside (as per our normal procedures), and all of a sudden we round a bend and find our self bumper-to-nose with 5 horses and their riders. So funny! Maybe it was because it was getting late and we were just so tired, but I could not stop laughing. So great. We scooted to the side as far as we could and tried to let them pass, and eventually both parties were free.

Finally we went "home." Home for the night was my first hostel - Penzance. I've heard horror stories about hostels, so I wasn't sure what to expect. Luckily, Tom got us a SWEET hostel. It was great. The bed there was 100000x better than my bed here in Penny Lane. The rooms were spacious and clean, and I didn't feel grossed out at all (which is saying something. Most of the time I've been here I've been at least 30% grossed out, often times more). I was in a room with the "Irish" and we had a lovely evening. A great end to another great day! :)

Wales: Day 18 We Came, We Cried, We Testified

Wednesday (July 21) was one of my most favorite days we've spent here. It was absolutely fantastic, all day long. Church history, hiking, Tolkien and another great city, what more could I ask for?

First we drove out to Benbow Pond. Wilford Woodruff baptized crazy numbers of United Brethren out here after digging and clearing this pond. All in all, he baptized about 1200 people during his mission in the area. It was early and still dewy when we got there and it was a beautiful crisp morning. We could really feel the Spirit and it was so cool to see the place where so many people made commitments to stand as a witness of God (Mosiah 18:9). Thank goodness for these faithful missionaries and the inspired Brethren who sent them. Because of their diligent work, many of us enjoy the blessings of the everlasting Gospel.

Next we drove a short ways to the Gadfield Elm Chapel on the Hill Farm. The chapel has a lock on it, with a laminated paper giving clues to the code, such as "The number of chapters in the Book of Enos" and the middle initial of some apostle, etc. Once we figured that out and went in, it was awesome inside! They had a cool little exhibit chronicling the work of Wilford Woodruff, the Benbow's and faithful Saints in the area. They even had a costume dress-up in the upstairs part of the cabin, so naturally we dressed up like polygamists.

The main part of the little cottage is a beautiful chapel with rock walls and wooden floors and pews. After perusing the photos and posters, we filed into the chapel and had a testimony meeting. At first I was a little weirded out by how it would go. I mean, it was a random Wednesday morning. We'd all been together for several weeks and been going to church together, but we didn't all know each other THAT well. I wasn't sure what it would be like.

It was SO good. SO good. I loved it. A large number got up to share their testimonies and the Spirit was really strong. I bore my testimony for the first time in a long, long time. Too long. But it was so great to do it again. I hope I can take the liberty of sharing a little bit of it now.

One thing I have learned increasingly over the past year is that the Lord knows us so much better than we'll ever know ourselves. He knows what we love and want, and more importantly, he knows the things that we don't want to do, or think that we can't do. Where those things overlap the things that we should or need to be doing, He prods us along.

In my life it has been evident that the opportunities that I've been reluctant to take advantage of are the ones I need the most. This study abroad was one of them. I remember who I am, and I'm beginning to see who the Lord wants me to be. I finally trust Him and I'm ready to follow Him. I'm done holding back and sticking with what I'm comfortable with. It's time for me to stand up and BE a member, and everything that comes with that. It needs to impact every sphere of my life. I've been reading Jane Eyre and one phrase stood out to me as I was reading today - "All is changed about me, sir, I must change, too" (p. 327-8). My life is moving and changing,

I don't know what's coming. But I do know that I want the Savior at the center of it as my Pilot.

The Gospel is true, the priesthood is real and the Savior successfully performed the Atonement for me and all others. Is there anything else I need to know? No. I'll try my best to keep my eyes on the Prophet and keep moving forward.

After this edifying and uniting testimony meeting, we traveled to Malvern Hills "British Camp." It was a HIKE. Very steep, rocky, and a pretty warm day. We got our heart rates up pretty fast. I hate nature AND hiking, so I was fully expecting to somewhat dislike the hike, but it was actually totally worth it! The view was incredible and the breeze cooled us instantly.

We hung out on the hill top for quite a while. We decided it would be fun to do some human pyramids, and we were right! haha Despite the dangerous and sometimes scary collapses of the pyramids, we had a great time building them. Teamwork!

The sides of the hill are grassy and super steep, then might level out for a bit before dropping sharply again. The wind was blowing like crazy and I was on the edge of the hill taking pictures. All of a sudden, Kayla's flip flop catches the wind and flies off the edge of the hill. Instinctively, I slide a few feet to grab it. Well. The grass was slick. I began to slide and it was so steep my feet couldn't get purchase. I was screaming and laughing and sliding feet-first on my stomach quickly losing ground. Finally, after falling approximately 30 feet, I hit a lip and was able to stop, flip flop in hand. Everyone was laughing and cheering as I stood up and raised my arms in the air and fist pumped with the flip flop. Hilarious and terrifying, so worth it. Such a great experience. We just hung out, laughed and enjoyed the view from the top of the hill, relishing the great experience and opportunity that we had. It was such a natural high, and I'll always remember it.

At the base of the camp was a little ice cream stand. These Brits know their ice cream. Triple Chocolate after the events on the hike never tasted better. I seriously can't get enough of the ice cream here. The Budge Family loves ice cream. Wish I could bring you guys back some!

Our city of the day was Birmingham. Now, we didn't spend tons of time in this city, but it's been one of my favorites! The parts we saw were clean, pretty and just all around cool. First we checked out the Sarehole Mill, a still-operational mill built in the 16th Century. How would you like this millstone hung about your neck?

What's up JRR Tolkien's house? We also ventured into the bog behind his house where he was allegedly inspired to write the LOTR. Sacred ground for some of you (Dad).

Finally, we drove into downtown Birmingham and spent a few hours in the Birmingham Museum of Fine Art. I loved it! I love art museums! I wish we had more time to see them and spend in them while we're here. I'm excited to go to the Portrait gallery and the Tate when I'm in London again. This museum was pretty amazing. My favorites were the 19th and 20th Century galleries, including a Picasso bronze sculpture.

The best part though was the Steve McCurry photo exhibit. Known for his iconic "Afgan Girl," his photos have become a sort of narrative and symbol of the political and religious conflict in the world today, particularly the Middle East. His work is absolutely stunning. We spent most of our time in his gallery, and then watched a Discovery Channel bit about his search to find her again after 17 years. Super cool.
Great day. I am still so happy to be here and amazed at all the things I get to see and do. A little more sleep would be nice, as we got in sort of late and had to be up before 6 am for our 2 day trip to Cornwall, but it's worth the fatigue. :)